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Post by Bryan Heff on Jan 12, 2015 15:54:56 GMT
Nice Find! Those I imagine could really look better without the recessed hole in the pommel.
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jan 12, 2015 15:58:35 GMT
Good find Findlithui! Do you have any idea what kind of thread they have? Sorry, I just saw they are metric. Even better.
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Jan 12, 2015 17:04:53 GMT
Wow... Fantastic find! Thanks for the info.
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Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
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Post by Razor on Jan 12, 2015 17:25:49 GMT
I have a DWA sword with one of their tang bolts on it. It might be the 1 7/8 one. I also have an H/T Longsword, I should try it out and see if it works.
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 12, 2015 19:42:40 GMT
I think I would like the look better if it was shaped a little to remove all but two facets and maybe try to round out the top some. It would look less "nut" like but would still be functional. Nice find. Do we think it's ss?
-Josh
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Post by MOK on Jan 12, 2015 20:51:37 GMT
Now that you mention it, it seems to me simply filing the head to a more pleasing, less nut-like shape should not be too huge of an undertaking...
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 12, 2015 22:06:56 GMT
Mild steel would be better imho since it would more easily take a patina. I'm looking forward to your results Dean.
-Josh
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Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
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Post by Razor on Jan 12, 2015 22:53:23 GMT
All of the parts I've gotten from DWA have been mild steel - have not seen stainless yet. And I generally clean 'em up a bit :). So - removing facets? A little filing? No problem, and not hard... I'm going to buy a couple of these & fool with them :). Again - they are a bit LONG... but that includes the "head". Most taps run 3/4" max depth - the only thing I really need to determine is if these are 1/2" threaded from the BOTTOM, or closer to 3/4". As I want to shorten them to about 28mm with head, I need to remove about 7mm (about 0.28") from the length. So I MAY need to shorten, drill about 1/4" deep missing the threads, and tap a bit deeper if they are threaded to 1/2" depth. Closer to 3/4"? Just shorten with a dremmel cut off wheel :). I just looked at mine. It's 2 1/4" long, the whole is 1 1/16" deep with 13/16" threaded.
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 13, 2015 0:12:42 GMT
I just noticed that they seem willing to shorten the bolt for you if it is too long for your needs. I'm not sure if this is a free service or not though. I've also asked them if they know whether or not these will fit with the H/T sword line.
-Josh
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Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
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Post by Razor on Jan 13, 2015 0:34:50 GMT
Razor? Please elaborate.... 2 1/4 OAL? 13/16" depth on the thread? Possible that this is a 1 7/8" unit, not counting the length of the "top" ? Sorry. The OAL length is 2 1/4''. the depth of the tread is 13/16''. the depth of the hole is 1 1/16''. I have to measure not counting the head, but my nut is for a basket hilt so it might be longer.
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Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
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Post by Razor on Jan 13, 2015 1:12:31 GMT
Ok. I measured the bolt without the head and the length is 1 7/8"
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Post by Curtis_Louis on Jan 13, 2015 1:49:10 GMT
Excellent find! I'm looking forward to seeing how this will turn out.
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 13, 2015 2:29:04 GMT
When I asked about compatibility with the H/T line they politely referred me to Dean -Josh
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 13, 2015 3:33:29 GMT
Josh - I'm still emailing them . I think they referred my data to their machinist - if they need one & are interested, I'm going to mail 'em a stock HT pommel nut . They really only heard about this idea TODAY . I think they'll be very happy they met you then -Josh
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Post by Huer-Ta on Jan 13, 2015 13:28:04 GMT
This is promising, great find Dean! I'll be waiting for your updates on this, I'm definitely interested in picking up a few if it works out.
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jan 13, 2015 14:24:29 GMT
Findlithui, I hang my head in shame. After my first reaction to your post, yesterday, something kept nagging. Today, when I came home after work, I remembered I had this Darkwood Espada Ropera, went and had a look. Lo and behold, you can fill in the rest. Here is a picture of the thing in action. I dunked the leather washer that came with it, so the bold is not tight. The construction depends on a tension fit, so, with the leather washer it will lock all parts, guard, grip and pommel, in place. Right now there is a bit of the bold showing, right under the head, but the bold is screwed on tight. I am a decadent moron to forget about having this excellent weapon. Thank you for wipping me Master.... Do not know why, but now the picture cannot be orientated to the left. Well, one can see it in action at least. Yippee, it worked but I ,, liked'' me own post instead of pressing the Edit button. Darn! Edit: I will do a review of this sword shortly and also place pictures of the construction in the data base. Cheers.
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jan 13, 2015 21:41:51 GMT
I am sure the top can be filed flat, a small diameter hole can be drilled and a fake peenhead sweated on. I am gonna give it a try anyway. The hole in the pommel is made for the bold to go in all the way, so the boldhead would cover it up. Good construction since there is no pressure on the grip. Remember the posts about similar systems where the bold really pushes down on the grip via the pommel and the resulting splitting thereoff. Getting to like Darksword and their products more and more.
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 13, 2015 22:17:32 GMT
Thanks Ulahn. If you trim the end of the bolt so the head fits better, will the interior threading still be adequate or will you have to add to it?
-Josh
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jan 14, 2015 6:13:15 GMT
Frank, as the nuts in the Windlass German Bastard and the Cold Steel Scottish Basket Hilt are much smaller than this one, I suggest that the DWA bolts have enough thread on them to shorten them a little bit if one should need to. That overkill in threaded area is what makes Findlithui's find so special and safe to tinker with. Findlithui's number 3 is the ideal solution to prevent undue pressure on the grip. I am curious as to what the results are with that Scottish basket. Edit: here's what happened to the bone grip of a Hanwei Side Sword: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/40901Not to show off my work, just to underline the importance of Findlithui's discovery. Bone is hard stuff to break, but undue pressure and some torque in the tang while wielding the sword make mincemeat of it.
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Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
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Post by Razor on Jan 14, 2015 8:28:21 GMT
Here is mine. The head of my bolt looks different than Ulahn's bolt.
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